Dancing for Pleasure?

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nayana-bhat-dancer

Dancer – Nayana Bhat

I still remember my first Bharatanatyam lesson as a six year old. I was shy and timid and the world seemed monstrously huge. My dance teacher was a 60+ year old man, who didn’t use any special communication skills to teach his younger pupils. When he bluntly asked me bend my knees more and turn them out, I nervously peeked at my peers, who were giggling. That made me feel like digging a hole in the ground and disappear. That was my first dance class. The discomfort made me quit the very next week; I preferred rather spending my Sunday mornings watching Alice in Wonderland on television.

Fortunately, I came back to a new Bharatanatyam class about four years later, and stayed on for another eight years. Dancing was so wonderful, so dreamy, such an escape from the harsh, real world! I could do it forever! However, I was told that we cannot live off dance, which was just a hobby. So I studied the next thing I loved the most – Journalism. While I craved for other forms of dance, the little sea-side town I came from, offered nothing more than Bharatanatyam. It was traditional and it was safe. They didn’t want to corrupt the younger generation with other weird things that were outside our culture.

Dancing for pleasure - Ballet in Bangalore
Ballet in Bangalore

When I started working as a journalist in the crowded city of Bangalore, I could finally take some Ballet lessons. I was very thrilled! Eventually, my Ballet classes became more important than going to my news bureau. On a tiresome working Sunday evening, I asked myself, “If I am working so hard anyway, why shouldn’t I work hard as a dancer instead?” I quit my job the next day and I auditioned with one of the contemporary dance companies in the city and was invited to join them in a week’s time.

Seven years have passed since. When I look back at my decision then, I am filled with amazement for my own younger, naïve self, for the courage showed. It wasn’t easy, it still is not, but it was worth it. I worked with Nritarutya Dance Collective for 20 months. It was my first step into what they called as “Indian contemporary dance”. It was strange, new and very fast. The company was young and upcoming; we were 8 enthusiastic young people dancing there, while also running the administration and other chores. I was under-experienced, but energetic and I danced for the sake of pleasure.

Dancing for the sake of pleasure is where it all begins. Hopefully, that is not where it ends. Sadly, it very well does so for many. But I thank god that it didn’t for me. It could have. I have no clear definition of the dance that I was dancing then. The company liked to call it “Indian contemporary dance”. The intention was to draw from the rich cultural heritage of the fossilized classical dance forms of India (pardon my political incorrectness!) and apply it to the modern world, in a contemporary fashion. I had my questions about the basics of what the word “contemporary” means in dance.

Dancing for pleasure - Nayana BhatWhen you question the basics, life becomes somewhat hard to get on with. The company used motifs from the Indian classical dance like the stance, the gestures, the bhavas, the rhythm patterns, and interlaced them with motifs of martial arts and acrobatics, placing them in various thematic contexts. It was visually stimulating, entertaining; but stirring my questions to become a lot stronger. “Is entertainment the primary purpose of dance? Are the gestures and the rhythms the real essence of Indian classical dance? Therefore, if I use them in my dance in a slightly different context, while wearing new-age clothing, does it translate the essence to a contemporary realm?”

The perfect answer would have been “yes”; a politically correct one “Maybe, maybe not”. However, I strongly disagreed. To me, the essence of the classical Indian dance is its spirituality. This spirituality may be embedded in its gestures and stances, but most importantly, it had to originate from a deep sense of devotion. Devotion to what? I didn’t know. Was I not devoted enough as a contemporary dancer? I was very devoted to my practice. What was missing then? I didn’t know. Thus began my search for a “real” transition from classical to contemporary. The story of every classical-converted-to-contemporary dancer in India, I believe!

Read – Dancing for Pleasure – Part 2

Kumartuli – Casting The Gods

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This year, I happened to be in Kolkata during Dussehra holidays. The city was bedecking itself for the ten-day long festival with puja pandals being set up everywhere. I was eager to see idols of the Durga puja being handcrafted, so I ended up at a place named Kumartuli.

Kumartuli - Unfinished Sculptures in Kumartuli
Unfinished Sculptures in Kumartuli

It is a Kolkata neighborhood located on the banks of the river Hooghly and lies to the north of central Kolkata. Kumartuli or Kumor Tuli, literally means “potters’ quarter”, ‘kumar’ being a potter or artisan. Over time, it has morphed itself into a leading place for sculpting of idols for most major Indian festivals. This place today, is famous for its sculptures of the Goddess Durga (or Shakti) and even exports to a number of countries.

I had to peer close in order to not miss the narrow lanes of Kumartuli, where reside the sculptors and their masterpieces. Most number of artisans reside on the winding lane of Banamali Sarkar Street. Its location is key to the fact that all idols of deities are cast in the clay found on the banks of the river Hooghly also known as ‘ganga-mati’ or the soil of the river Ganges.

The soil also has another important aspect. The soil from the river is mixed with a handful of soil from the doorstep of a prostitute with her blessing also known as ‘vaishya-mati’. Most people I spoke to abided by the tradition and mentioned it as being a ritual to include all members of the society in the puja or even purging of their (prostitute’s) sins. It is an integral part in the creation of the Durga idols and no idol is created without this soil.

The sculpture is first cast on a framework of straw and supporting beams depending on the final size of the sculpture. A 12-foot structure is made of 1,500-2,000kgs of clay, which includes the – Durga, her escort – a lion, the demon Mahisasura, a cobra in his hand and a buffalo, which is his escort. The sculpture is then left to dry till it develops slight cracks. After this, it is covered with a thin cloth and a final round of sculpting take place before it is painted. The paint is usually mixed with the flour of tamarind seeds, which lends it a gummy texture, thus helping to hold the sculpture better. It is then decorated with various pieces of fine cloth and accessories.

There are various styles of decoration of Durga idols. Some of the well known ones are: Bangla, Art Bangla, and Dhakershaaj – where idols are decorated with fine white Shola or Indian cork made from the Sholapith plants found in marshy areas. A large number of sculptures are adorned with real clothes, while some have clothes sculpted on them and then painted. The variety of sculptures and the diversity in features is astounding!

Kumartuli - Idols covered in Tarpaulin, Ganga-mati in the foreground
Idols covered in Tarpaulin, Ganga-mati in the foreground

As I sit by a sculptor deep in a meditative trance etching fine details into a mane of the Lion, a fine drizzle starts. The entire neighborhood is startled into action and scurry about to cover the sculptures with tarpaulin. The rains have been relentless this year. Being a cyclone-prone area, Kolkata has been facing a heavy rainfall in the weeks leading up to the Durga pujas, owing to a cyclonic storm on the Bay of Bengal. The idols, which would have been dried on its own, now need to be either flame dried or blow dried, both of which come at a heavy price for the sculptors. The artisans have been working round the clock to ensure that deliveries are made on time before Navratri.

Most artisans are old, some in their third generation of sculpting. I meet Pradip Pal, who is having his lunch and invites me in. In his dark workspace, under the light of a single bulb, stands his grandson framed by the idols. His grandson does not foresee a future in sculpting and is studying for an alternate career. There is sadness in Pal’s voice when I ask him if he desires to see his family tradition continued. Pal recounts his ancestral legacy, a time when kumars (artisans) were invited into the house of the wealthy to cast a Durga Pratima (idol). Being a houseguest, kumars would create the idol in front of the household awe everyone with their skills. Today, these spaces are gradually losing their legacy as children of sculptors choose other careers, top among which is the software profession.

Kumartuli - Crammed workspace of sculptors
Crammed workspace of sculptors

The narrow lanes of Kumartuli turn muddy with the rains as the ganga-mati mixes with the dust on the streets, the squalor of the place and its small habitats spills onto the street. And in their midst, rises mighty sculptures of the goddess Shakti, with her numerous arms lording over a slain Mahisasura. She looks calm and ferocious, beautiful yet frightful all at once and inspires awe. As the muddy hands sculpts each feature and paints each line with the care and respect of the maker one cannot help but fall in love with all that transcends the pure beauty of creation.

Factfile –
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kumortuli
http://www.outlookindia.com/article.aspx?262075

Telangana wins, Hyderabad loses?!

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Telangana wins - Bonalu festival in Telangana
Bonalu festival in Telangana

I landed in Hyderabad on the day Telangana Rashtra Samithi’s President K Chandrasekhar Rao (infamous KCR of TRS!) began his fast unto death, demanding statehood for Telangana. Those winter days of 2009 exposed me to a period of maximum strife, which I had not witnessed any time in my career. My family shifted house from Bangalore to Hyderabad during those days and our entire belongings was stuck in a warehouse for days!

For a person who was unexposed to issues of Andhra Pradesh (AP), I was quite taken aback by the violence during the statehood agitation. I always thought when we fight against our oppressors we become violent, but Telangana and the rest of Andhraites (Coastal Andhra and Rayalaseema) are supposed to one Telugu brethren. I was perplexed by the anger displayed by Telangana supporters in their agitations. Particularly, the slogan shouted by TRS was baffling – “Telangana wale jago, Andhra wale bhago!”

Talking to my neighbours and colleagues, I found that the T-issue is extremely divisive. I found that there was extreme distrust among each other right from economic development to cultural issues. As an outsider, I always assumed that there was one uniform Telugu culture across Andhra Pradesh. Isn’t this the same state that was first united in 1956 on the basis of linguistic reorganisation of states? The numerous socio-economic terms floating around adds to the confusion –
• Telangana – the 10 northern districts of Andhra Pradesh that was ruled Nizams of Hyderabad
• Rayalaseema – the 4 southern landlocked districts of AP
• Seemandhra – the 9 coastal districts of AP
• Samaikya Andhra – The United Andhra movement to retain the current status of AP

Telangana wins - Pesarattu - the unique dosa of Andhra
Pesarattu – the unique dosa of Andhra

My discussion with my colleague, Satish made me realise that Telangana culture is actually different from the Seemandhra and Rayalaseema. Although many festivals overlap on each other’s traditional calendar, there are festivals like Bathukamma and Bonalu, which are celebrated only in Telangana. Similarly, the Telugu spoken by Seemandhra is considered pure and based on the textbook grammar, while the Telugu spoken in Telangana is considered impure since it borrows Urdu words. The food eaten by Seemandhra is dominated by rice and dhal, while it is roti and chutney in Telangana.

The divisive issues of Andhra seem to originate before India’s independence. My colleague Shalini Nair, a journalist with good grip on history, revealed that it all started with Hyderabad Nizam’s opposition to join the Indian Union. When the Indian Army move in, it routed the Nizam’s Razakar militia and established a new government. Due to Nizam’s autocratic rule, there was no democratic movement in place in Hyderabad region at that time. Soon after, when the Andhra state movement picked up momentum, Telangana leaders were easily manipulated by Andhra politicians who had learnt their art of politicking in the then Madras Presidency. While the “Peddamanushula Oppandam” or the gentlemen’s agreement was signed between Telangana and Andhra leaders before the formation of the state of Andhra Pradesh in 1956, it was never respected.

Hyderabadi-Haleem
Image Source

On the other hand, Srinivasa Rao, another friend of mine from Guntur feels that the lack of development in Telangana originates from the Nizam’s days, when the Muslim ruler only focused on developing certain pockets of the state which enhanced his revenue generation. The lack of infrastructure across Telangana and Vidarbha in Maharashtra and Hyderabad Karnataka stands testimony to the Nizam’s misrule. Particularly, Srinivasa Rao highlights the fact that most businesses in the state are established by Seemandhra businessmen, which highlights their enterprising nature. However, Srinivasa warns that if the Telangana state is granted, Andhra businessmen will be forced. When I probed why or how a legitimate business will be forced out of its immovable properties, I got to know that most of their lands are illegal!

Even an outsider like me could sense that there is a clear socio-economic division among the two communities. All the well-placed infotech professionals I interacted were from Seemandhra, while people doing menial jobs like security, housekeeping were from Telangana. Similar to politics, almost all the Telugu movie heroes originate from the Seemandhra region. The rustic Telugu mixed with Urdu spoken by Telanganaites is seen used by the movie villains!

Telangana wins - Sunset behind Buddha statue in Hussain Sagar, Hyderabad

All said and done, the differences between the two communities have now become irreconcilable today. It is high time for the two warring communities to sit down and settle the issue amicably without intervention from Delhi! As it is said in the Mahabharata epic, ‘Yadavi Kalaha’ brought the end of the Dvapara Yuga, it looks like the tussle for Telangana will end up in ruining Hyderabad as a vibrant city and the AP state as a whole. Despite Hyderabad’s original name being, “Bhagyanagar” I feel the city has lost its Bhagya!

Factfile –

http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2009-12-11/hyderabad/28063667_1_golconda-fort-hyderabad-dynasty
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gentlemen%27s_agreement_of_Andhra_Pradesh_%281956%29
http://tentelangana.blogspot.in/2011/10/why-andhra-people-shouldnt-give-up.html
http://www.firstpost.com/politics/logic-of-telangana-is-sound-why-india-needs-small-50-states-999325.html
http://www.indianexpress.com/news/kcr-threatens-to–chase-away-andhraites-/539515/
http://www.simplydecoded.com/2013/02/06/sri-krishna-committee-report-decoded/
http://www.andhranews.com/ftopic2692.html
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-24159594

The Tale of Seven Sisters… Part II

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Continued from The Tale of Seven Sisters… Part 1

A Pleasant Surprise and an Unplanned Ride

Tale of Seven Sisters - Riding along verdant fields on NH-34
Riding along verdant fields on NH-34 | Click to enlarge

As expected, Guwahati welcomed me with unusual torrents. Although a stranger to the city, I never felt like one. The state capital’s language, culture, mannerisms, food, et-al., among many other things were strikingly similar to things in West Bengal. But I couldn’t help notice a few other similarities:

  1. Laid back authorities
  2. Insane traffic sense of commuters

Thanks to one more ‘babu’, it took me close to three and half hours to get my bike’s ‘gate-pass’ done. I rushed to the Deputy Residence Commissioner’s office of the Government of Arunachal Pradesh located at R.G. Baruah Road to get my ILP done. There, I was treated courteously and advised that it being a Saturday, the signing authorities have left already and the ILP could only be ready by Monday. Mr Deka at the ILP office proactively promised me that he will see to it that the ILP is ready by early Monday morning. In the meanwhile, he suggested that I should ride down south to Meghalaya and Agartala with two days in hand. That sounded like a brilliant idea. It was indeed a pleasant surprise and I was all charged up for an unplanned ride to the wettest place in the world (the highest average annual rainfall)!

It was time for me to ride with the tide. I set my GPS coordinates to Shillong, which indicated the route via GS Rd/AH 1/AH 2/NH 40 and a distance of a mere 100kms. A happy me finally hit the road at 2.30pm towards the rock capital of India! Road conditions ranged from good to bad. I don’t know if it is a mere coincidence or reality, “road widening”, “two-laning”, “patching” are always in progress whenever I ride out. However, it didn’t quite matter much as I was not racing against time and enjoyed time clicking, shooting, chit-chatting with the locals to cover a distance of 100kms within 5 hours.

Tale of Seven Sisters - Fog envelops the serene beauty of Seven Sisters
Fog envelops the serene beauty of Seven Sisters

Shillong’s alpine valley welcomed me with arms wide open and I embraced her like a playful child. I checked in at Hotel Broadway and lodged myself in a single room. Running away from the maddening crowd is never easy! An over-enthusiastic & incessantly loud Bong family stumbled upon me and I got caught in their line of firing questions. This is how it went:
“Arey dada – Alipore registration…” (Hey dude, Alipore registration?)
“Kothay jaben? (Where to?)
“Eka eka chole elen, barite allow korlo? (You came alone, did they allow at home?)
“Koto dey garita”? (How much mileage?)
“Kolkatay kothay thaken?” (Where do you stay at Kolkata?)

Any other time, I would have enjoyed this interaction, but the rat race inside my tummy almost made me suffocate to their questions. And I whispered to myself “Really… Bongs are everywhere!” I quickly gulped my dinner from a restaurant that served Bengali cuisine and rushed back to the hotel room to face another bigger challenge! Shooting a documentary!

Soon I realised videography was altogether a different ball game and once again inspiration played its part to get me into this. I was inspired by the tales of Gaurav Jani (award-winning filmmaker and traveller) and this was going to be my unsung tribute to him. I tried to shoot an introductory clip in my hotel room and I looked like a fool in front of the rolling camera. I had to re-take almost 10 times to shoot a clip of 3 minutes and I could very well guess what was lying ahead!

Tale of Seven Sisters - On the road- Off the road- Mawsynrum- Cherrapunji - Sohra- Sela
On the road- Off the road- Mawsynrum- Cherrapunji – Sohra- Sela

It was practically my first day on road. So I started quite early, as early as 4.30 in the morning! Just as I packed my saddle, I felt like somebody was calling me out. “Dada”…?? I didn’t pay much heed the first time, quite obviously you don’t expect to be someone’s elder brother during the wee hours of morning. I heard the sound once again, this time nearer and shriller! It was Bhola, the hotel room caretaker I had befriended few hours back during check-in. With a torch and umbrella in his hand, he came up to me and very sweetly asked, “Cha khabe?” (Wanna have some tea?). Albeit not a big fan of this exotic Chinese leaf, I didn’t quite mind a cup of hot tea especially with such wind chill and drizzles around. More than anything else, I was touched by Bhola’s gesture! My instant response to him was “Etto shokale? Kothay pabe?” (Where will you get tea so early in the morning?).

Tale of Seven Sisters StatesHis response was a smile full of warmth. “Two minutes”, he said. Pleasantly surprised, I concentrated on packing once again. After couple of minutes, I could hear quick steps running down the stairs. And there he was with a flask full of tea and two cups. As I took sips off my cup and warmed up, I thought to myself. Truly, there are no strangers here; only friends you haven’t yet met. I was convinced that this ride couldn’t go wrong, no matter what happened!

“Empty your mind!” “Empty your mind!!” I kept whispering to myself. As, by the time I kickstarted the journey, my mind had got filled up like one busy junction of the Times Square. A sky-full of thoughts, apprehensions and anxiety clogged my inner self. What if I don’t come back safe? What if I lost my way? What if… Mom always said whenever you are perplexed, remember God, he takes care! Well, being an atheist, I don’t have much of a relationship with this man-made element. Despite that, I did say my prayers, to my creators: My parents. I left Shillong still in deep slumber and took along with me a very shy sun and a thumping Thunderbird!

Factfile –

http://tinyurl.com/nupme42
http://en.wikipedia.org
http://www.indiamike.com
http://xkmph.com/

Venture out on Vegan Meals!

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I am well aware of organic food due to my association with various voluntary organisations working in the field of environment and sustainable agriculture. Today, conscious efforts are being made in choosing the right kind of food products that are not harmful for the environment. Eating organic food has become a well established trend among urbanites, who realise that every tiny bit we do adds up to make our lifestyle lot more wholesome and the environment a lot more better.

Veganism is becoming a much talked about food concept that is rising in trend, which was first adopted by environmentalists and animal rights activists. But when I first came across this concept I wondered while avoiding meat to an extent was surely possible, how can anyone avoid all kinds of animal-based products. Since I am a passionate cook, a dear one gifted me a voucher for a green cooking session on my birthday, which falls on the World Vegetarian Day.

Vegan Meals - Nina Osswald demonstrates vegan food
Nina Osswald demonstrates vegan food

But I was still curious about knowing what constitutes green cooking and vegan meals, so I eagerly participated in the session organised by Goethe-Zentrum, the German cultural institute in Hyderabad that regularly organizes various socio-cultural activities. Goethe-Zentrum had invited Nina Osswald, a German researcher and a well known organic consultant to talk on issues of organic food, environment and health.

Nina Osswald introduced us to this new concept called ‘Veganism’, which can be defined as the practice of abstaining from the use of any kind of animal products in diet, as well as preventing cruelty to animals in all human activities. While a vegetarian diet excludes all kinds of meat, a vegan diet does not include a dairy product as well! It is quite an unusual concept for us Indians, who are obsessed with using milk and other dairy products in our food.

Veganism is becoming a much talked about food concept that is rising in trend, which was first adopted by environmentalists and animal rights activists. But when I first came across this concept I wondered while avoiding meat to an extent was surely possible, but how can we exclude dairy products from your daily routine cooking and still stay healthier?

Nina Osswald, who practices veganism explained to us on various ingenious ways by which we can vegan diet in Indian cuisine. Nina had been a part of global organic movement since many years and she also follows a strict vegan diet. She has been a vegan for last two years and she says it does not make much of difference to exclude dairy products from her food for she has found other alternatives to compensate them.

Vegan Meals - Vegan Nina

Nina’s session began with an awareness talk about on organic food and products. Later she shared some important vegan recipes and also prepared a wholesome good meal using them. Lot of interaction between her and the participants made the session more interesting. At the end of the session, we all shared a vegan whole meal and to my surprise it was tasty too!

Nina gave us a list of ingredients that are more suitable to vegan diet:

  • Replace polished rice with millets and whole wheat
  • Soya or Coconut milk instead of dairy milk
  • Sprouts of pulses instead of animal protein
  • Cashew paste and peanut butter instead of butter, ghee

Talking about vitamins, Nina says similar vitamins can be consumed through greens, vegetables, fruits and pulses. She enlightened us many recipes and said if you are determined, you can easily create your own recipes without using any dairy product. when inquired how does she feel being a vegan? she say she been all the more healthy and light and she feels by doing she can do her bit for the mother earth.

Veganism is a small but growing movement. In many countries the number of vegan restaurants is increasing, and some of the top athletes in certain endurance sports such as triathlon and the ultramarathon, etc. practise veganism, including raw veganism. Well-planned vegan diets have been found to offer protection against many degenerative conditions, including heart disease.

Vegan Meals - Vegan Ragi balls with sesame
Vegan Ragi balls with sesame

Vegan diets tend to be higher in dietary fibre, magnesium, folic acid, vitamin C, vitamin E, iron, and phytochemicals, and lower in calories, saturated fat, cholesterol, long-chain omega-3 fatty acids, vitamin D, calcium, zinc, and vitamin B12. Since plant foods tend not to contain significant amounts of B12, researchers agree that vegans should eat foods fortified with B12 or take a daily supplement.
Overall, it looks like a vegan diet is a feasible idea. I am trying it out at home with sprout salads and ragi rotis this World Vegetarian Day. Do let me know if you have created any good recipes out of vegan food!

Factfile –

http://www.indianvegan.com/home.php
http://www.thehindu.com
http://thealternative.in

The Tale of Seven Sisters and a Motorcyclist – Part I

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Motorcyclist - Biking Seven Sisters States
Riding along verdant fields on NH-34 | Click to enlarge

“A Solo thumping Soul” – I had nothing to prove to anybody. No regrets on what might have happened on any of my past rides. No hard feelings for anybody. No emotional slings or any promotional blabber! All I wanted was “THE RIDE”. I was eager to taste the freedom of riding solo, face and overcome challenges on my own grit. See how much I could really endure… curse, blame and bang myself for whatever baloney might happen on the road and whisper to my mom… “Look Maa, I have grown up”!

East to West …North to South, I consider myself fortunate enough to get a glimpse of the mystic and Incredible India and remain hungry to explore many more unknown lands and meet the most colourful people on my trails. It was this zeal to know the unknown that triggered my solo ride to one of the remote and uncharted parts of the country… the enchanting North East! A part that is also known as the ‘Seven Sister States’.

Why North East?

Motorcyclist - Solo Biker- Royal Enfield Thunderbird
Solo Biker- Royal Enfield Thunderbird

“Beautiful” and “Wild”, these are possibly the most apt adjectives for the Seven Sister States. Situated far away from the maddening crowd and at staggering heights where one could get lost. For me this ride meant liberty to become one with nature… to have a rendezvous with the Bohemian within me. This was my opportunity to break free the shackles of the “earthly disordered” life of a corporate slave. Further, I was always curious about the ethnic and cultural diversity among the north eastern states. Thus began an epic tale of over 5,000kms across 5 states for 15 days.

Historically, I don’t remember dad making a fuss about any of my rides in the past; and my mom was always the ‘Nirupa Roy’ of our family. However, this time I was in for a surprise. All hell broke loose the moment I “itched” the topic of my solo ride at the dinner table. After some heated verbal exchange, dad left the dinner table “half-hungry”. Mom stared at my face with zero gravity. My brother concentrated more on the delicious ‘Muri-ghonto’ and gulped dad’s share too. Mr Arnab Goswami ogled at my face from the TV screen pseudo-asking “Let’s debate on this once more and ask for the nation’s opinion”! I realized that everybody becomes ‘Dad’ eventually and called it a day.

Ride preparations and the Route for the Solo Ride

Motorcyclist - My Royal Enfield Thunderbird packed and ready
My Royal Enfield Thunderbird packed and ready

My readers may be aware, most border states in India such as Arunachal Pradesh require ILP (Inner Line Permits) for entry. On any bright sunny day, acquiring an ILP is usually a hassle-free affair. However, if you hail from a state called West Bengal, you might be standing at the wrong door of fate. I had applied for my ILP for 2 zones in Arunachal (Bomdilla-Tawang- Sela-Bumla Pass [West Kameng district]) and (Itanagar-Gohpur-Ziro-Daporijo) 10 days in advance at the Arunachal Bhavan and was advised to check back after a week. When I inquired about the status with less than 2 days left for the ride, a very pensive attendant quite effortlessly informed me that ‘Bada babu’ is on leave and they can’t find my application. I would have to re-apply which would take another 2-3 days. Just guess my natural reaction to that!

Later, I realized acquiring an ILP from Guwahati would be a better option. One can also apply for ILP in other parts of Assam. So finally I was all set to ride in mid-May 2013 (although without an ILP!).

  • Got my Royal Enfield Thunderbird fully serviced (motorcycles for sale)
  • Installed a pair of Hella fog lamps on a makeshift mount
  • Loaded spare tubes, puncture repair kit, a dozen 10-15amp fuses and Royal Enfield tool kit
  • Packed my riding gears, 4, 5 Bungee ropes, waterproof and outdoor gears
  • Took my camera kit (Canon EOS 1000D), Tripod, Gorillapod, backup memory cards

Finally the Route:

Plotting my route across Seven Sister States on Google Maps

Plotting my route across Seven Sister States on Google Maps

Kolkata -> Siliguri (via NH 34) -> Guwahati -> Shillong -> Cherrapunji‎ -> Mawsynram -> Shella, East Khasi Hills, (all in Meghalaya) -> Agartala (Tripura) -> Tezpur (Assam) -> Bomdila -> Dirang -> Sela Pass -> Tawang -> Itanagar -> Ziro (all in Arunachal Pradesh) -> Sivasagar -> Jorhat -> Guwahati (all in Assam) -> Siliguri -> Kolkata

There was nothing eventful during my journey between Kolkata to Guwahati through the notorious and bone breaking National Highway – NH 34. For a moment, I felt national highways in India only existed on maps! Biking in India is like playing football in Iraq, you never know what hits you!

The Tale of Seven Sisters… Part 2

Factfile –
http://tinyurl.com/nupme42
http://en.wikipedia.org/
http://www.indiamike.com

Celebrate Tourism Day in Offbeat Destinations

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Offbeat destinations - Beyondwild photography expeditions
Beyondwild photography expeditions

The other day, I happened to visit an interesting trade show named Travel & Tourism Fair (TTF), which claims to be India’s leading travel trade show hosting events across all major cities in India. There all kinds of expo stalls hosted by representatives of state tourism development corporations, large hotel chains, spa & resorts, jungle trek organisers, travel websites, foreign tour operators, and others. The variety of travel options they offered were mind boggling. If you had the money and inclination, you could anywhere from Andamans to the Himalayas in India, Bangkok to Switzerland abroad!

There were very few individual customers visiting the expo. It could be that TTF is a B2B travel trade show mainly visited by travel agents and tour operators. I interviewed a few stall owners and checked out which are the tour itineraries popular among Indian tourists. I was surprised to know that despite the plethora of travel options on offer, most tourists asked for only three options – beach & booze locations, honeymoon packages, shopping destinations!

Offbeat destinations - Scuba diving in Andamans
Scuba diving in Andamans

Are we confining our travel only three options… don’t we want to explore our diverse country, learn about new cultures, see enchanting scenery, experience the adventure and unwind in serene surroundings…

It is so sad that most of us don’t want explore new travel spots; rather we would go to the same location and do the same things. If travel is about enjoying the thrill, I am surprised that how this kind of repetitive visits can be thrilling! This is like saying “Hey, I went to Goa again during holidays and it was mind blowing, man!”

Anyway, for those who still have some adventure left in them, I urge you to take the off-the-beaten track on this world tourism day. Here are some interesting and exotic travel packages to check out –

Offbeat destinations - Homestay amidst coffee estates
Homestay amidst coffee estates

Agri-tourism or farm tourism packages offered in Maharashtra and Punjab
Scuba diving in Andaman & Nicobar Islands 
Ayurvedic treatment and spice plantation visit in Kerala
Homestay amidst coffee estates and angling for fish in Coorg
Tea tasting and tea infused menu in Ooty tea gardens
Trekking in the foothills of Himalayas in the Northeast 
Volunteer for organic farming in Uttarakhand

Heartwarming Homestays at Coorg

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Homestays at Coorg - built in British bungalow style
Homestay cottage built in British bungalow style

People in Coorg carry hospitality in their genes, homestays help promote the unique Kodava culture. Spend time away from maddening crowds, you can choose to stay in a Coorg homestay which is surrounded by a picturesque coffee estate, verdant forest and water streams. What was special about the vacation you spent in your grandpa’s village house in the good old days? You lived a spacious yet charming tiled roof house with wooden furniture. You roamed around the countryside, playing in the water streams, trekking up the hillside, relishing the wild fruits and fooling around with frogs and crabs. Food made by your grandma in the traditional way was delicious and a number of fruits were available for dessert. Now compare that experience to a stay in a commercial hotel in a hill resort today!

Many of us wonder if it is possible to experience such a heartwarming homely stay in a hillstation in a commercial set up. Fortunately, the new concept of ‘Homestays’ try to recreate exactly the same experience that we all desire for. In a typical homestay, guests are either accommodated in the family home or in separate quarters nearby, and are provided with the same comfort as a regular hotel. While this concept is well established in the West in the form of ‘bed & breakfast’, it has taken roots in India over the last decade.

Homestays at Coorg - Birds eye view of Madikeri from Ajantha Homestay
Birds eye view of Madikeri from Ajantha Homestay

Particularly, homestays are more prevalent in hill resorts such as Ooty, Kodaikanal, Coorg, etc. due to the lack of regular hotels as well as tourist demand to stay in homely place in the hills. Nestled deep in the tropical rainforests of Western Ghats, is the tiny district of Coorg in Karnataka. Misty hills, lush green forest, acres of coffee and tea gardens, orange groves, undulating streets and breathtaking views make Coorg or Kodagu an unforgettable holiday destination.
It was their first time in a Coorg homestay for 34 year old Deepak Jayaram and Shubha Deepak, 32, and they loved the personal touch and the way their hosts made them feel special. They stayed in Ajantha Homestay located just outside Madikeri, the district headquarters of Coorg. Their host K. M. Karumbaiah is one of the homestay pioneers in Coorg, establishing Ajantha Homestay way back in 2003, at a time when Coorg was just warming up to the concept of homestays. Karumbaiah explains “Back then, I had a tourist info centre and I saw several tourists go back disappointed due to lack of rooms in hotels”. He says “the idea of a homestay came about when I stayed at a bed ‘n’ breakfast place in 2001, while visiting Edinburgh in Scotland.”

Coffee wood furniture in verandah – Sandbanks

For Micky Kalappa of Sandbanks nestled in a coffee estate in Ammathi, it was always a pleasure to treat guests at his home in Coorg. “My father loved playing host to people from all around the world”, says a proud Kalappa who started his homestay way back in 1991. Talking about homestays, Micky Kalappa says they have become a trend among the urban elite. “People come to homestays to understand the Kodava culture, while people who stay at hotels just want fun and adventure”.
Many like minded Kodava families soon joined the growing tribe of homestay hosts and finally the Coorg Homestay Association was born and registered in 2006. The then Tourism Secretary of Karnataka, I.M. Vittal Murthy took special interest in helping out the families to get their demands fulfilled. A draft copy of homestays from the UK was studied and based on that model a policy was formulated in 2009. An inspecting agency was formed to monitor these homestays for basic necessities and registration. So today, there are 178 registered homestays in Coorg. Homestays are classified as non-commercial units and there are two types: the Premium Type – Silver and the Luxury Type – Gold.

Homestays at Coorg - Exploring a coffee estate
Exploring a coffee estate

The President of the Coorg Homestay Association K.M. Karumbaiah says that there is a constant increase of 10-20% of people checking into homestays every year. Based on the great Indian tradition of “Athithi devo bhava”, the association aims to promote homestay. “People in Coorg carry hospitality in their genes, we are just making a good use of it”, quips Karumbaiah. Further, homestays also help promote the unique Kodava culture. “We make it a point to see that our guests try out local cuisine, take them to Kodava weddings and ceremonies and tell them about the local culture and tradition”, adds Karumbaiah.
So the next time you need to spend time away from maddening crowds, you can choose to stay in a Coorg homestay which is surrounded by a picturesque coffee estate, verdant forest and gentle water stream. In fact, some of these homestays are located just next to a waterfall like Iruppu Falls!

This is a post by our guest author Apoorva S. All the photographs in this post are by the author.


Factfile –

Homepage


http://www.discovercoorg.info

Check our feature on Coffee Flavoured Honey!

Devbagh – The Island I Call Home

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Devbagh
Image – Abhijeet Rane

 

My memory of the little island of Devbagh and the inviting little huts that studded it, is still vivid. I remember being taken by complete surprise when I first set my eyes on it.

We had taken a sleeper bus to Karwar from Bangalore. Approaching Karwar, any lingering traces of our sleep were driven away when we were accosted suddenly by breathtaking views of the sea. Once in Karwar city, we found ourselves being motored away from a small jetty that grew smaller and smaller as we sailed farther away into the sea. I stuck my hand into the water and watched as a wall of water rose around it. The sea seemed like an enormous giant, its incongruous breathing forming little crests and troughs on the surface. Soon, Devbagh Beach Resort greeted us.

Devbagh

It was like an emerald pearl in the sea, with its many tall Casuarina and coconut trees and its long, empty beach. Our eyes eagerly spanned the width of the beautiful beach. I remember feeling like I was returning home. The ferry announced our arrival by bumping against the jetty and bobbing up and down.
Walking past the first line of Casuarina trees we found, cosy little tent houses and thatched-roof huts propped up on stilts. They seemed to be right out of a Hansel & Gretel story!

Our feet sank into the beach sand, which covered the island as we walked towards our hut tucked away amidst tall trees. There were very few other people on the island and this added to its charm. From our little thatched-roof abode, we could see the sea twinkling at us through the trees. Our three days there went faster than I desired. I would have liked to have known the island and its ways intimately.

Devbagh
Image – junglelodges

We indulged in some water sports on the first day. Jungle Lodge Resorts, which owns Devbagh, provides a range of adventure and water sports activities. There was a ‘banana boat’ that sped into the sea and toppled sideways at a thumbs-up signal, sending us all splashing into the water. I invariably missed this signal, being too intoxicated in the surroundings; I would always surface spluttering water which I swallowed by the mouthful, eyes stinging with salt, but with an elated smile on my face.

Devbagh Parasailing
Parasailing over emerald islands and the sea

Our excitement mounted when we were lead to another tiny neighbouring island for parasailing. And what an experience that was! Despite having a terrible case of vertigo, I decided to give it an attempt. I soared high up in the air like a kite, while tethered to a sailboat in the sea, the wind tugging me this way and that. Below me lay a vast expanse of blue-green sea dotted by lush green islands and hillocks.

Devbagh
Image – Kunal Mukherjee

The next two days were spent blissfully under the spell of the sea. I loved waking up to the crashes of the waves and would go out to catch a glimpse of the sea before I did anything else. One morning, we were taken for a nature walk around the island by a naturalist. Our trail winded along the coast and through the dense foliage and we were introduced to some of its smaller inhabitants. Come evening, once we had feasted on some freshly caught fish, we sat on an elevated mound of sand and watched the sea for what seemed like an eternity, lulled into a content silence as silver waves climbed towards us and receded. We would go back to our cottages much later, in a trance.

Devbagh
Image – Kunal Mukherjee

 

I would have much preferred to be the flame-backed woodpecker outside our cottage, hammering away at trees on the island with the sea just a glance away, but the day we had to leave had come and it was with a heavy heart that I watched as the little island went from being right in front of my eyes to a distant green speck in the sea.

Other Places to See

  • Kurumgad Island: another untouched neighbouring island where you can go canoeing, kayaking and snorkelling.
  • Sadashivgad Fort: Local buses go to this fort which is located 5km north of Karwar, near the Kali Bridge. The fort sits atop a hill, which affords soothing views of the Kali river and the hills in the distance.

Factfile –
When to Go: September to March
How to Get There
Fly: The nearest airport is the Dabolim Airport in Goa, 90 km away.
Chug: The Karwar Railway Station is 2 km away from the town. There are many trains on the scenic Konkan Railway route, which stop here.
Ride: Buses are regularly available from Karwar to Bangalore, Mysore and Mumbai
http://www.junglelodges.com
http://www.tripadvisor.in

Junagadh – Walk Into an Abandoned History

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My wanderings across Gujarat brought me to a small town in Saurashtra region, Junagadh. Entering the town, I got a feeling this is a place that somehow seems to dwell in its past. The name ‘Junagadh’ comes from the words ‘juna’ and ‘gadh’ (meaning old fort) and all that is old about Junagadh greets you, somehow undermining all efforts of modernization. A visitor is tempted to live off the history that every turn in every street offers in this town in south western Gujarat.

The history of Junagadh can be traced back to 250 BC, and when you drive into this sleepy town, it belies the turbulence of being through 16 sieges over 800 years. Before acceding to Indian rule, the last rulers of Junagadh were the Nawabs of Babi Dynasty (1749 – 1949 AD). Ruled by the Nawabs, Junagadh was a princely state during the time the British Raj and acceded to become a part of Pakistan during the early days of independence. However, given that the population of Junagadh province was 96% Hindu and owing to the state not being geographically contiguous to Pakistan, India intervened on the pretext of communal tension and cut off all economic and communication channels.

Mahabat-Maqbara,-Junagadh,-Gujarat
Mahabat Maqbara, Junagadh, Gujarat

In October 1947, the last ruler, Nawab Muhammed Mahabat Khanji III fled to Pakistan just before the Indian troops moved in the take over the state. In November 1947, the Dewan of Junagadh (chief minister), Sir Shah Nawaz Bhutto invited the Indian government to accede. Coincidentally, the Dewan was the father of Zulfikar Ali Bhutto, who became the prime minister of Pakistan.

Today, Junagadh stands testimony to all its history preserved in architecture, which tries to blend in with the hustle of a small city trying to come into the fold of modern India. Most of the architecture you’ll see is from the last two centuries; the most notable are the tombs of the Babi Nawabs. While these aren’t very well maintained and you will often find dilapidated interiors, they still by no means have lost their grandeur. The sunset with the silhouette of the famous Mahabat Maqbara, built on the grave of the Nawab Mahabat Khan II is a splendid sight. Adjacent to the Maqbara is the Jammi Mosjid, which is a beautiful piece of architecture, but has seen much renovation in recent years and seems to have lost its old world charm. Then there is the Junagadh Palace, Durbar Hall Museum as well as other remnants of an illustrious past strewn about the town such as the clock tower.

Junagadh - Adi Kadi Vav (Step-well) in Junagadh
Adi Kadi Vav (Step-well) in Junagadh

However, the oldest part of Junagadh and possibly the chief contributor to its name is the Uperkot fort, or the upper citadel. Over 2300 years old, this is the most significant piece of Junagadh’s history. Chandragupta Maurya of the Mauryan dynasty originally built the fort in 319 BC, which remained in use until the 6th century. After being rediscovered, its subsequent rulers made several additions to the Uperkot Fort. In the 11th Century, the Solankis of the Chalukya dynasty commissioned two large step-wells: Adi Kadi Vav and Navghan Kuwo. Adi-Kadi Vav is a man made canyon carved out of rocks, is around 81 meter long, 4.75 meter wide and around 41 m deep. There were no ornamental designs, but the rock stratum along the side walls gave it stunning looks.

Uperkot is steeped with history, folklore and a confluence of diverse religions that existed in Junagadh. Hindu temples dedicated to Ganesh, Hanuman and Shakti mark the entrance to Uperkot. The most prominent structure is the Jama Masjid, which was originally the queen’s palace of Rani Ranakdevi. The palace was converted to a mosque when Sultan Muhammed Begada conquered Junagadh in 1473 AD.

Junagadh - Buddhist Caves in Junagadh

In the same complex are the Buddhist caves, which date back to 2,000 years. These caves were carved during the reign of Emperor Ashok and are believed to be among the oldest monastic settlements in Gujarat. These caves seem to be monastic quarters mostly bare, with an earthy feel and some carvings in pillars, which still remain. There are interesting Ashokan rock edicts located on the way to Girnar hills dating back to 250 BC. The biggest edict is a huge rock with carvings in Brahmi script describing the rule of Emperor Ashok.

There is so much to explore in Uperkot. Besides the architecture, what really brings the monuments to life is the folklore associated with each of them. The large metal canons (Neelam and Manek) tell tales of battles fought against the Portuguese with Turkish help. The step-wells tell tales of sacrifice by two sisters, Adi and Kadi after whom the well is named, such that water would sprout from the earth. In Junagadh, there is a sense of time slowing down. Here, the folklores live on, well beyond the lips of the tourist guides, and somewhat in its centuries old buildings, the rocks seem to whisper to each travelling ear, if only you would stop and listen!

Junagadh - Children play cricket with the backdrop of the Mahabat Maqbara

 Factfile –
http://en.wikipedia.org
http://discoverindiabyroad.blogspot.in
http://www.flickr.com/photos/aditipatnaik/