Famous Treasure Hunts in Indian History – Part I

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The great Indian media tamasha has got a welcome relief from mundane topics; it is on a treasure hunt! The media jamboree has landed in an unknown village named Daundia Khera in the Unnao district of Uttar Pradesh to cover the search for lost treasure. Based on the visions of a local seer, a central minister ordered the Archaeological Survey of India to survey the area and search for lost treasures of the 19th-century king, Raja Rao Ram Baksh Singh. While the ASI has gone ahead earnestly with its treasure hunt in Daundia Khera, archaeologists across India are aghast with the wasteful exercise. They wonder when great treasures such as statues, ancient inscriptions lie unattended in unknown ruins, what made the government machinery to rush in to search for gold. Is gold the only worthy treasure to be searched?

From time immemorial, the fascination for gold has persuaded the human civilisation to launch numerous treasure hunts. Right from the days of the Muhammad of Ghoris and Ghaznis invading India, to the Pirates of the Caribbean who searched for Aztec gold, invaders have always searched exotic lands for gold. Many found them and returned, but many died in vain. Here is a list of great treasure hunts in Indian history, which are remembered for their infamy and intrigue.

2011 AD – Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple

Treasure hunts in Indian - Padmanabhaswamy Temple
Maharaja of Travancore in Padmanabhaswamy temple | The Hindu

Sree Padmanabhaswamy temple in Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala shot into the media spotlight recently when a Supreme Court’s order forced open the secret chambers of the temple for inspection. When the six vaults underneath the temple were opened, the inspection committee were astounded by the immense wealth worth around Rs.100,000 crore discovered there. Around 1,200 golden chains, three golden crowns, numerous golden staffs, golden plates, golden coins of 1732 vintage, and precious stones including diamonds, cat’s eye, rubies and emeralds were found in just two vaults. Apart from them, a gold idol of Mahavishnu studded with rubies and emeralds, and ceremonial attire in the form of 16-part gold anki weighing almost 30 kilograms were found along with golden coconut shells.

As expected, controversy erupted soon after the inventory of four vaults was completed and the value of the treasure trove was revealed. Who is the real owner of the property – Is it the temple trust committee headed by the erstwhile king of Travancore or is it a public property owned by the state of Kerala? The case is now pending with the Supreme Court, which will take the final decision on the ownership. However, the treasure hunt in Padmanabhaswamy temple raises a bigger issue: who is the owner of the properties of all the wealthy temple trusts in India? The local people, the government, or the trust?

1976 AD – Jaigarh Fort Treasure Hunt

Treasure hunts in Indian - Jaigarh Fort near Jaipur
Jaigarh Fort near Jaipur | Wikipedia

Surprisingly, there was a similar treasure hunt conducted in 1976 by the Indira Gandhi government during the heydays of the emergency period. Just outside Jaipur, lies the mountain top citadel of Jaigarh fort, which was built by Jai Singh II in 1726 AD to protect the Amber fort. Legend has it that Raja Man Singh I, who was the Rajput ally of Emperor Akbar, collected a lot of wealth during his war campaigns and some of this treasure was hidden in Amber fort and Jaigarh fort for posterity.

Long after it was forgotten, rumours reached Indira Gandhi who was more than eager to uncover this wealth particularly since the Jaipur royal family fought the elections against the ruling Congress(I) party. Further, Princess Gayatri Devi had objected to the emergency imposed by Indira Gandhi, thus enraging an already upset Congress leadership. Indira Gandhi ordered the Income Tax Department to take stock of the royal family’s income and assets, which was conducted with the help of the Indian army to conduct the raids inside the palace.

Another shocking aspect of this treasure hunt was Pakistan’s claim on it! Zulfikar Ali Bhutto, then prime minister of Pakistan, heard about the treasure hunt and sent a letter to Indira claiming a due share of this wealth, since this asset was not known during the partition of India and Pakistan. While Indira declined to reply, the Army division sent to unearth the treasure returned empty-handed after searching for three months. However, many claim that a treasure was actually found and it was swept away by Indira. They claim a curse that is usually attached with all kinds of hidden wealth befell on her and her son who led this expedition.

Read more – Famous treasure hunts in history – Part II

Factfile –
http://blogs.wsj.com
http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com
http://en.wikipedia.org
http://daily.bhaskar.com
http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com

Walking The Konkan Culture Trail Through Coastlines of Karnataka

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Konkan Culture
Gokarna KonkanAndrea Kirkby/Flickr

Living all my life in Karnataka, I must admit the Konkan coast has always captivated me with its natural beauty and cultural offerings. Be it a morning walk on the calm Panambur beach or a trek up the Sadashivgad fort in Karwar and Gokarna, the winds of the Konkan continue to fascinate the traveler in me. In Gokarna, I have always felt the culture is a blend of Karavali, tribal and north Karnataka culture. I believe this brings in a diverse variety found nowhere else in Karnataka. In contrast, places like Mangalore and Murudeshwara hold up the values of Kanara or Karavali region, the name given to Karnataka’s coastline. Further, being the closest to Maharashtra’s coastline, Gokarna is also part of the Konkan culture.

Konkan-Culture-Food Poha
Image – Scott Dexter/Flickr

So do you wake up and smell Aloo Poha or Neer Dosa? No, that is not yet the trick question. You might wake up and smell Poha and Chai in your home, and have Dosa and Khara bhath with filter coffee in the nearby hotel, while across the road would be a Caucasian guesthouse serving Muesli with yogurt and orange juice! On one of my recent visits, I reached Gokarna town early morning and just as I planned breakfast, I gulped down some Chow-chow Bhath. So it is not unusual in Gokarna to find a bit of Bangalore’s Uppittu-Kesari bhath combo as well!

The Kudle Hike

Konkan Culture Trail-Kudle Hike
Image – Praveen Ramavath/Flickr

From the temple town of Gokarna, a marked walking trail leads travelers to Kudle beach, the first beach down south. This is where a change of culture happens. The town beach of Gokarna beckons devotees who bathe to wash their sins and visit the Mahabaleshwara Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. However, as you walk up the trail, the sighting of Caucasian backpackers increases, and you feel the surprising transition from a sacred Hindu beach to a chilled out hippie beach! Over the years, Gokarna has become a hippie paradise, inviting western travelers who are tired of exploring Goa.

Konkan-Culture-Trail-Gokarna
Konkan – Well-Bred Kannan/Flickr

On my hike to Kudle beach, I stopped to admire a small shrine; one that had always been there but almost always skipped my visit earlier. It is a simple shrine of Shiva enclosed in a hexagonal temple and painted with Hindu gods over a yellow pastel base. The part that intrigues me about these visits to the coast is these local temples and the stories each one has to say. Not far from this temple along the trail to Kudle beach is the ‘Go-karna’, meaning the cow’s ear. It is a rock in the shape of dew-drop with an entrance in the middle. The pleasant surprise is that, there are no guides stalking you to sell you this story; however, you could befriend a local and get the info.

Goli Bajjis and Mangalore Buns

Konkan Culture Food
Mangalore Buns, Image Clourtesy – Bangalore Shor

In the evening, I strolled into the laid back town and sat at a small café for snacks and tea. Cafes along the beach serve pizzas, pasta, falafel, hummus rolls and grilled sandwiches. The cafés that cater only to locals make Goli Bajjis and Mangalore Buns. This is very typical of the Karnataka side of the Konkan coast. Unlike the Alu Bajjis we have in Bangalore, Goli Bajjis (or Golibaje) are mildly sweet and super fluffy fired snacks with no filling, no sambar on the side and only chutney.

And then there are Mangalore Buns. I used to eagerly wait till the evening when these are served freshly fried. Yes, they are fried, just like puris. Mangalore buns are a thick puris with bananas mashed into the dough. The taste of banana flavored – slightly sweet snack is best savored with chai. It comes close to Kajjaya, just not as sweet. Gokarna, being on the northern side of Karnataka, is a big user of chai (tea) and not coffee like us in Bangalore. Well, the variety is what we travel for!

Tell me, my friend, which color do you like?

As my trip stretched on, a young local girl approached me on the beach. She wanted to sell me beads. She was wearing a sari and hung a few hundred beaded necklaces on her arms and around a stick to sell. But the more amusing thing was her English. Not only did she speak in English when we switched languages, but she also spoke clearly using full sentences. She was not stalking me like local hawkers in tourist destinations. She was selling me what her tribe essentially makes and wears. Beads!

Image – Jacques Beaulieu/Flickr

Her sales strategy was customized to the foreign tourist who is mesmerized by Indian culture and would not find a much of a difference in a few hundred rupees. In my view, she was educated enough to speak the language and reach out to potential customers. Did I mention it empowered a tribal woman in her living? I did my part of buying a few beads to gain the satisfaction of helping her.

Notably, older tribal women were also speaking simple English to sell fresh fruits off their handheld basket. These locals were not even dressed in proper clothes like the bead seller; they were still in tribal attire and as I guess, living with their clan outside Gokarna town limits. I felt the best form of support for a local economy is in buying fresh fruit from these hawkers. You eat fresh, leave no carbon footprint, help the local economy and pay much lesser than your stack of packed snacks.

Factfile –
Wiki/Karavali
Wiki/Gokarna
Google Maps location

Indian culture… what’s that?

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Indian cultureThe word ‘Indian Culture‘ evokes strong emotions among people. Particularly, any attempt to define what is Indian culture and what is imported culture sparks fierce debate. It has been more than 20 years since our country’s economy was liberalised and outside influences were allowed in. The wave of Globalisation has swept across the nation and has brought about profound changes. Or has it…it would be really interesting to know whether we have changed over these years. Being a cultural magazine, we at Caleidoscope have created a visual survey to understand people’s opinion about Indian culture. Please do participate in this visual survey and help us define our culture.

Please click on each icons to indicate your preferences –

Dancing for Pleasure – Part II

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Continued from Dancing for Pleasure – Part I

Dancing-for-pleasure-nayana-bhat-1
Interacting with other dancers

My three months in the summer improvisation workshop in Amsterdam was mind-boggling. We worked intensively on improvisation – to move as we pleased, to allow the movement to emerge without judgment or guidance. This kind of practice involves observing one’s movement patterns; bringing to surface one’s unconscious ways of moving, and therefore creating space for newer choices. It was a new way of looking at movement, at life!

My next two years were spent on understanding the basics of the body, discovering where movement originates from, where dance begins. I realized that I was never encouraged to simply explore meaningless movement – movement for the sake of it; with no need to make it look beautiful (as opposed to the awe-inspiring geometry of classical forms), or without telling a story (“Radha and Krishna dance on Yamuna banks!”). Of course, when you watch a dance performance as an audience, you want to see beauty, you want to be engaged and entertained; you want to understand what’s going on. But as a practice, how can I create dance that is coming honestly from me, as opposed to wearing a well-practised smile that has lost its real intention long ago?

Dancing for pleasure - Dance-UBcity H2Zero show
Dancing for H2Zero show in UB City, Bangalore

I collaborated with other dance companies in Bangalore; I worked with dancers and choreographers from all over India and the west, persistently looking for a definition that would consists of everything that I was seeking in Indian contemporary dance. In this search, I explored various ways of moving (sometimes not moving at all!), many times challenging the audience’ perception and my own. I have been asked many times “Why are you doing this?” or “Why can’t you do the good-old Bharatanatyam? Everyone likes it; you are even good at it!” (That was my mother, of course). I must confess that it was hard to face such questions and still continue with my research. …To go on without an apparent reason, but being driven just by a strong drive from the inside.

Fortunately, I have been lucky enough in my performing career to experience audiences that were open-minded. There were many times when they were willing to be touched, to be moved; when they were empathetic to honest expressions. For poetry, they were willing to let go of logic. I do not mean to say that classical Indian dance has no poetry. What I mean is the grammar need not have to be that of classical dance in order to be appreciated. This was a wonderful encouragement for me to trust that I didn’t have to explain everything even if I was working with something the audience is unfamiliar with, as long as they get the essence.

I spent my last year participating in the International Choreographers Exchange program at the Salzburg Academy of Experimental Dance (SEAD). The entire year was jam-packed with creating choreographies, and training in contemporary dance techniques under world-class teachers from across Europe. It was amazing to spend an entire year being surrounded only by dancers and choreographers of all kinds, to watch them, to learn from them and share with them my points of view.

Dancing-for-pleasure-nayana-bhat-2
Dancer – Nayana Bhat

SEAD is known for encouraging dancers and choreographers to develop their individual styles in dance. I, on the other hand, coming from an Indian classical dance background, am trained to follow, to learn by following and surrendering. In SEAD, I had to mix the two ways in order to function. It was a new way; I had to put in double the work than the rest.

This one year brought me many revelations regarding my transition from classical to contemporary dance. First of all that the devotion I was speaking of earlier has to be brought into the act of moving itself, especially in the absence of a deity, unlike in classical Indian dance forms that have their roots in ritualistic practices. In contemporary dance, this devotional presence has to be discovered in the simple act of moving, where the dancer treats each of her moves not as movements that she “does”, instead as though they were in her very nature of being.

As philosophical as it may sound, this immediately negates the need for the audience to have a linear narrative in order to experience the emotions that the performance evokes in them. It allows them to surrender to what the dancer is presenting, as she is surrendering herself to it. This is the way a ‘rasa’ is created in the audience, just as in classical Indian dance. I find that to be a powerful connecting point between classical Indian dance and any other performing art.

In the course of my research, I had to redefine my definitions several times of what dancing meant, what the purpose of performing art was according to me. And yet, I do not stand on a steady ground today; the definition of what art serves or means is ever-changing as it always has. I do not know if I can ever find a transition or if I will spend the rest of my life hanging in between two worlds; but I do know that this search has enriched me not only as a dancer, but also as a human being. Last but not the least, I discover time and again that no matter how contemporary I am or I become, my heart still belongs to what is classic.

Benefits of a Healthy Smile

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Everybody love to have a healthier smile. It makes him or her feel comfortable and confident when interacting with friends and relatives. It also affects how your close friends will view you. For the last few decades, everybody can afford to have a perfect smile they have always dreamed of. People no longer have to allow discoloration, broken, chipped and stained teeth to hold their smile captive. 

Smile
Image Pixabay

There are various and different options available to deal with many issues that can prevent you to have a healthy smile. This article enlightens you on some of the benefits of having a healthy smile as described by Cosmetic Dentistry Phoenix. 

Reduces stress: Normally when someone has a healthy smile, he or she will be willing to show it off to their friends, relatives, and the general public. It comes out that frequently smiling is good for you. This releases a feel-good emotion that will improve your mood making you feel happier. It, therefore, reduces the daily stress that you might be dealing with.

Smile-2

Healthy Smile will make you more attractive: Many people around the world gravitate towards some people who seem to appear sociable and happy. I guess you are the same as well. When you tend to smile, more people will naturally be attracted to you. It makes you be more loved and likable. This helps you to form and maintain a good relationship with your close friends and relatives in your professional and your personal life. According to some studies, most of the people who regularly display good emotions are likely to have and maintain interpersonal relationships and marriages. Are you looking to have and enjoy fun with more friends? Then you need to start fixing your teeth and smile more often. 

Healthy smile boosts your immune system: According to a recent research that was conducted by Mayo Clinic, healthy smile boosts the immune system. They found that laughter and positive thoughts will help your brain to fight off diseases and illness. They also found that negative thoughts and negative moods will lower your immune system. In addition, laughter therapy has been found to be the best for postnatal patients. It was found to improve their immunity’s responses. It, therefore, turns to be true to the Old saying that….’’laughter is medicine.’’

Healthy smile improves heart health: Note that the advantages of health smiling and laughing do not stop with someone’s immunity. It also helps to lower the blood pressure. This also goes well with heart health. When you are prone to laughter, your heart rate beat is increased. This is followed by a decrease in the heart rate and blood pressure as the muscle relax. It, therefore, helps you to lower the possibilities of developing heart complications. 

Smile-3
image – Unsplash

Good habits: Keeping your smile healthy will influence you to practice other good habits such as washing your dishes after dinner, lacing up your shoes, making your bed and cleaning your bathroom and toilet every evening and every morning. Let your health smile trigger you to do new things in terms of good habits. 

It will give you peace of mind: Most of the time when your smile is not health, there is always a constant voice in your head that will keep worrying you. You will experience gum bleeding and teeth pain. If you can care for your gums and teeth as your dentist will recommend, you will definitely silence that worrying voice. Therefore dental care will give you a peace of mind. 

It leads to dental health: Healthy smile means your dental health is perfect. You need to keep your mouth free of diseases and illness-causing tartar and plaque buildup that goes a long way to ensure you are making it and not just faking it. 

Smile-4
Image – Unsplash

Healthy smile allows you to save more money: When you have a healthy smile, you will find yourself saving some cons. The moment you have nailed the healthy dental routine such as visiting your dentist you have been avoiding, you will be ahead of your starting line. If you have a healthy smile, it means you are reducing your chances of needing costly dental procedures in your life. 

Healthy smile boosts the moods of other people around you: Having a healthy smile will improve the mood of your relatives, close friends and all the people around you. This is according to a research which was conducted back in the year 2006 and it was published in the safety research journal. The team in this research found that the moment a motorist is smiled at, he or she tends to drive slower and cautiously when they are near pedestrians. So what will happen if you improve the mood of people around you? It will lead to good and stronger working relationships and you stand a high opportunity of being promoted at the workplace. 

Health smile keeps breath fresh: A healthy smile means a fresh breath. This is a must if you want to communicate comfortably with your fellow workmates and the clients. In other words, bad breath will act as a barrier to career growth especially when you are willing to be promoted or to climb the company’s ladder and impress your line manager. According to Mayo Clinic research, poor oral hygiene, gum disease, and cavities are culprits of bad health.

Smile
Image – Unsplash

Healthy smile leads to the release of Neurochemicals: Generally, health smile provides an emotional lift. You feel more comfortable, calmer and happier after smiling because smiling promotes the brain to produce a balancing chemical known as Neurochemical. When selling the brain releases endorphins, serotonin, neuropeptides and dopamine. These neurochemicals tend to regulate mood and reduce pain. 

In conclusion, we are all aware that we have to maintain the health of our teeth, and we knew some few reasons why we must do that. But with the above reasons and their implementations. We look forward to seeing a generation with good dental health. I hope after reading the above article on the benefits of healthy smiling you have been enlightened.

Dancing for Pleasure?

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nayana-bhat-dancer

Dancer – Nayana Bhat

I still remember my first Bharatanatyam lesson as a six year old. I was shy and timid and the world seemed monstrously huge. My dance teacher was a 60+ year old man, who didn’t use any special communication skills to teach his younger pupils. When he bluntly asked me bend my knees more and turn them out, I nervously peeked at my peers, who were giggling. That made me feel like digging a hole in the ground and disappear. That was my first dance class. The discomfort made me quit the very next week; I preferred rather spending my Sunday mornings watching Alice in Wonderland on television.

Fortunately, I came back to a new Bharatanatyam class about four years later, and stayed on for another eight years. Dancing was so wonderful, so dreamy, such an escape from the harsh, real world! I could do it forever! However, I was told that we cannot live off dance, which was just a hobby. So I studied the next thing I loved the most – Journalism. While I craved for other forms of dance, the little sea-side town I came from, offered nothing more than Bharatanatyam. It was traditional and it was safe. They didn’t want to corrupt the younger generation with other weird things that were outside our culture.

Dancing for pleasure - Ballet in Bangalore
Ballet in Bangalore

When I started working as a journalist in the crowded city of Bangalore, I could finally take some Ballet lessons. I was very thrilled! Eventually, my Ballet classes became more important than going to my news bureau. On a tiresome working Sunday evening, I asked myself, “If I am working so hard anyway, why shouldn’t I work hard as a dancer instead?” I quit my job the next day and I auditioned with one of the contemporary dance companies in the city and was invited to join them in a week’s time.

Seven years have passed since. When I look back at my decision then, I am filled with amazement for my own younger, naïve self, for the courage showed. It wasn’t easy, it still is not, but it was worth it. I worked with Nritarutya Dance Collective for 20 months. It was my first step into what they called as “Indian contemporary dance”. It was strange, new and very fast. The company was young and upcoming; we were 8 enthusiastic young people dancing there, while also running the administration and other chores. I was under-experienced, but energetic and I danced for the sake of pleasure.

Dancing for the sake of pleasure is where it all begins. Hopefully, that is not where it ends. Sadly, it very well does so for many. But I thank god that it didn’t for me. It could have. I have no clear definition of the dance that I was dancing then. The company liked to call it “Indian contemporary dance”. The intention was to draw from the rich cultural heritage of the fossilized classical dance forms of India (pardon my political incorrectness!) and apply it to the modern world, in a contemporary fashion. I had my questions about the basics of what the word “contemporary” means in dance.

Dancing for pleasure - Nayana BhatWhen you question the basics, life becomes somewhat hard to get on with. The company used motifs from the Indian classical dance like the stance, the gestures, the bhavas, the rhythm patterns, and interlaced them with motifs of martial arts and acrobatics, placing them in various thematic contexts. It was visually stimulating, entertaining; but stirring my questions to become a lot stronger. “Is entertainment the primary purpose of dance? Are the gestures and the rhythms the real essence of Indian classical dance? Therefore, if I use them in my dance in a slightly different context, while wearing new-age clothing, does it translate the essence to a contemporary realm?”

The perfect answer would have been “yes”; a politically correct one “Maybe, maybe not”. However, I strongly disagreed. To me, the essence of the classical Indian dance is its spirituality. This spirituality may be embedded in its gestures and stances, but most importantly, it had to originate from a deep sense of devotion. Devotion to what? I didn’t know. Was I not devoted enough as a contemporary dancer? I was very devoted to my practice. What was missing then? I didn’t know. Thus began my search for a “real” transition from classical to contemporary. The story of every classical-converted-to-contemporary dancer in India, I believe!

Read – Dancing for Pleasure – Part 2

Kumartuli – Casting The Gods

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This year, I happened to be in Kolkata during Dussehra holidays. The city was bedecking itself for the ten-day long festival with puja pandals being set up everywhere. I was eager to see idols of the Durga puja being handcrafted, so I ended up at a place named Kumartuli.

Kumartuli - Unfinished Sculptures in Kumartuli
Unfinished Sculptures in Kumartuli

It is a Kolkata neighborhood located on the banks of the river Hooghly and lies to the north of central Kolkata. Kumartuli or Kumor Tuli, literally means “potters’ quarter”, ‘kumar’ being a potter or artisan. Over time, it has morphed itself into a leading place for sculpting of idols for most major Indian festivals. This place today, is famous for its sculptures of the Goddess Durga (or Shakti) and even exports to a number of countries.

I had to peer close in order to not miss the narrow lanes of Kumartuli, where reside the sculptors and their masterpieces. Most number of artisans reside on the winding lane of Banamali Sarkar Street. Its location is key to the fact that all idols of deities are cast in the clay found on the banks of the river Hooghly also known as ‘ganga-mati’ or the soil of the river Ganges.

The soil also has another important aspect. The soil from the river is mixed with a handful of soil from the doorstep of a prostitute with her blessing also known as ‘vaishya-mati’. Most people I spoke to abided by the tradition and mentioned it as being a ritual to include all members of the society in the puja or even purging of their (prostitute’s) sins. It is an integral part in the creation of the Durga idols and no idol is created without this soil.

The sculpture is first cast on a framework of straw and supporting beams depending on the final size of the sculpture. A 12-foot structure is made of 1,500-2,000kgs of clay, which includes the – Durga, her escort – a lion, the demon Mahisasura, a cobra in his hand and a buffalo, which is his escort. The sculpture is then left to dry till it develops slight cracks. After this, it is covered with a thin cloth and a final round of sculpting take place before it is painted. The paint is usually mixed with the flour of tamarind seeds, which lends it a gummy texture, thus helping to hold the sculpture better. It is then decorated with various pieces of fine cloth and accessories.

There are various styles of decoration of Durga idols. Some of the well known ones are: Bangla, Art Bangla, and Dhakershaaj – where idols are decorated with fine white Shola or Indian cork made from the Sholapith plants found in marshy areas. A large number of sculptures are adorned with real clothes, while some have clothes sculpted on them and then painted. The variety of sculptures and the diversity in features is astounding!

Kumartuli - Idols covered in Tarpaulin, Ganga-mati in the foreground
Idols covered in Tarpaulin, Ganga-mati in the foreground

As I sit by a sculptor deep in a meditative trance etching fine details into a mane of the Lion, a fine drizzle starts. The entire neighborhood is startled into action and scurry about to cover the sculptures with tarpaulin. The rains have been relentless this year. Being a cyclone-prone area, Kolkata has been facing a heavy rainfall in the weeks leading up to the Durga pujas, owing to a cyclonic storm on the Bay of Bengal. The idols, which would have been dried on its own, now need to be either flame dried or blow dried, both of which come at a heavy price for the sculptors. The artisans have been working round the clock to ensure that deliveries are made on time before Navratri.

Most artisans are old, some in their third generation of sculpting. I meet Pradip Pal, who is having his lunch and invites me in. In his dark workspace, under the light of a single bulb, stands his grandson framed by the idols. His grandson does not foresee a future in sculpting and is studying for an alternate career. There is sadness in Pal’s voice when I ask him if he desires to see his family tradition continued. Pal recounts his ancestral legacy, a time when kumars (artisans) were invited into the house of the wealthy to cast a Durga Pratima (idol). Being a houseguest, kumars would create the idol in front of the household awe everyone with their skills. Today, these spaces are gradually losing their legacy as children of sculptors choose other careers, top among which is the software profession.

Kumartuli - Crammed workspace of sculptors
Crammed workspace of sculptors

The narrow lanes of Kumartuli turn muddy with the rains as the ganga-mati mixes with the dust on the streets, the squalor of the place and its small habitats spills onto the street. And in their midst, rises mighty sculptures of the goddess Shakti, with her numerous arms lording over a slain Mahisasura. She looks calm and ferocious, beautiful yet frightful all at once and inspires awe. As the muddy hands sculpts each feature and paints each line with the care and respect of the maker one cannot help but fall in love with all that transcends the pure beauty of creation.

Factfile –
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kumortuli
http://www.outlookindia.com/article.aspx?262075

Telangana wins, Hyderabad loses?!

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Telangana wins - Bonalu festival in Telangana
Bonalu festival in Telangana

I landed in Hyderabad on the day Telangana Rashtra Samithi’s President K Chandrasekhar Rao (infamous KCR of TRS!) began his fast unto death, demanding statehood for Telangana. Those winter days of 2009 exposed me to a period of maximum strife, which I had not witnessed any time in my career. My family shifted house from Bangalore to Hyderabad during those days and our entire belongings was stuck in a warehouse for days!

For a person who was unexposed to issues of Andhra Pradesh (AP), I was quite taken aback by the violence during the statehood agitation. I always thought when we fight against our oppressors we become violent, but Telangana and the rest of Andhraites (Coastal Andhra and Rayalaseema) are supposed to one Telugu brethren. I was perplexed by the anger displayed by Telangana supporters in their agitations. Particularly, the slogan shouted by TRS was baffling – “Telangana wale jago, Andhra wale bhago!”

Talking to my neighbours and colleagues, I found that the T-issue is extremely divisive. I found that there was extreme distrust among each other right from economic development to cultural issues. As an outsider, I always assumed that there was one uniform Telugu culture across Andhra Pradesh. Isn’t this the same state that was first united in 1956 on the basis of linguistic reorganisation of states? The numerous socio-economic terms floating around adds to the confusion –
• Telangana – the 10 northern districts of Andhra Pradesh that was ruled Nizams of Hyderabad
• Rayalaseema – the 4 southern landlocked districts of AP
• Seemandhra – the 9 coastal districts of AP
• Samaikya Andhra – The United Andhra movement to retain the current status of AP

Telangana wins - Pesarattu - the unique dosa of Andhra
Pesarattu – the unique dosa of Andhra

My discussion with my colleague, Satish made me realise that Telangana culture is actually different from the Seemandhra and Rayalaseema. Although many festivals overlap on each other’s traditional calendar, there are festivals like Bathukamma and Bonalu, which are celebrated only in Telangana. Similarly, the Telugu spoken by Seemandhra is considered pure and based on the textbook grammar, while the Telugu spoken in Telangana is considered impure since it borrows Urdu words. The food eaten by Seemandhra is dominated by rice and dhal, while it is roti and chutney in Telangana.

The divisive issues of Andhra seem to originate before India’s independence. My colleague Shalini Nair, a journalist with good grip on history, revealed that it all started with Hyderabad Nizam’s opposition to join the Indian Union. When the Indian Army move in, it routed the Nizam’s Razakar militia and established a new government. Due to Nizam’s autocratic rule, there was no democratic movement in place in Hyderabad region at that time. Soon after, when the Andhra state movement picked up momentum, Telangana leaders were easily manipulated by Andhra politicians who had learnt their art of politicking in the then Madras Presidency. While the “Peddamanushula Oppandam” or the gentlemen’s agreement was signed between Telangana and Andhra leaders before the formation of the state of Andhra Pradesh in 1956, it was never respected.

Hyderabadi-Haleem
Image Source

On the other hand, Srinivasa Rao, another friend of mine from Guntur feels that the lack of development in Telangana originates from the Nizam’s days, when the Muslim ruler only focused on developing certain pockets of the state which enhanced his revenue generation. The lack of infrastructure across Telangana and Vidarbha in Maharashtra and Hyderabad Karnataka stands testimony to the Nizam’s misrule. Particularly, Srinivasa Rao highlights the fact that most businesses in the state are established by Seemandhra businessmen, which highlights their enterprising nature. However, Srinivasa warns that if the Telangana state is granted, Andhra businessmen will be forced. When I probed why or how a legitimate business will be forced out of its immovable properties, I got to know that most of their lands are illegal!

Even an outsider like me could sense that there is a clear socio-economic division among the two communities. All the well-placed infotech professionals I interacted were from Seemandhra, while people doing menial jobs like security, housekeeping were from Telangana. Similar to politics, almost all the Telugu movie heroes originate from the Seemandhra region. The rustic Telugu mixed with Urdu spoken by Telanganaites is seen used by the movie villains!

Telangana wins - Sunset behind Buddha statue in Hussain Sagar, Hyderabad

All said and done, the differences between the two communities have now become irreconcilable today. It is high time for the two warring communities to sit down and settle the issue amicably without intervention from Delhi! As it is said in the Mahabharata epic, ‘Yadavi Kalaha’ brought the end of the Dvapara Yuga, it looks like the tussle for Telangana will end up in ruining Hyderabad as a vibrant city and the AP state as a whole. Despite Hyderabad’s original name being, “Bhagyanagar” I feel the city has lost its Bhagya!

Factfile –

http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2009-12-11/hyderabad/28063667_1_golconda-fort-hyderabad-dynasty
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gentlemen%27s_agreement_of_Andhra_Pradesh_%281956%29
http://tentelangana.blogspot.in/2011/10/why-andhra-people-shouldnt-give-up.html
http://www.firstpost.com/politics/logic-of-telangana-is-sound-why-india-needs-small-50-states-999325.html
http://www.indianexpress.com/news/kcr-threatens-to–chase-away-andhraites-/539515/
http://www.simplydecoded.com/2013/02/06/sri-krishna-committee-report-decoded/
http://www.andhranews.com/ftopic2692.html
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-24159594

The Tale of Seven Sisters… Part II

4

Continued from The Tale of Seven Sisters… Part 1

A Pleasant Surprise and an Unplanned Ride

Tale of Seven Sisters - Riding along verdant fields on NH-34
Riding along verdant fields on NH-34 | Click to enlarge

As expected, Guwahati welcomed me with unusual torrents. Although a stranger to the city, I never felt like one. The state capital’s language, culture, mannerisms, food, et-al., among many other things were strikingly similar to things in West Bengal. But I couldn’t help notice a few other similarities:

  1. Laid back authorities
  2. Insane traffic sense of commuters

Thanks to one more ‘babu’, it took me close to three and half hours to get my bike’s ‘gate-pass’ done. I rushed to the Deputy Residence Commissioner’s office of the Government of Arunachal Pradesh located at R.G. Baruah Road to get my ILP done. There, I was treated courteously and advised that it being a Saturday, the signing authorities have left already and the ILP could only be ready by Monday. Mr Deka at the ILP office proactively promised me that he will see to it that the ILP is ready by early Monday morning. In the meanwhile, he suggested that I should ride down south to Meghalaya and Agartala with two days in hand. That sounded like a brilliant idea. It was indeed a pleasant surprise and I was all charged up for an unplanned ride to the wettest place in the world (the highest average annual rainfall)!

It was time for me to ride with the tide. I set my GPS coordinates to Shillong, which indicated the route via GS Rd/AH 1/AH 2/NH 40 and a distance of a mere 100kms. A happy me finally hit the road at 2.30pm towards the rock capital of India! Road conditions ranged from good to bad. I don’t know if it is a mere coincidence or reality, “road widening”, “two-laning”, “patching” are always in progress whenever I ride out. However, it didn’t quite matter much as I was not racing against time and enjoyed time clicking, shooting, chit-chatting with the locals to cover a distance of 100kms within 5 hours.

Tale of Seven Sisters - Fog envelops the serene beauty of Seven Sisters
Fog envelops the serene beauty of Seven Sisters

Shillong’s alpine valley welcomed me with arms wide open and I embraced her like a playful child. I checked in at Hotel Broadway and lodged myself in a single room. Running away from the maddening crowd is never easy! An over-enthusiastic & incessantly loud Bong family stumbled upon me and I got caught in their line of firing questions. This is how it went:
“Arey dada – Alipore registration…” (Hey dude, Alipore registration?)
“Kothay jaben? (Where to?)
“Eka eka chole elen, barite allow korlo? (You came alone, did they allow at home?)
“Koto dey garita”? (How much mileage?)
“Kolkatay kothay thaken?” (Where do you stay at Kolkata?)

Any other time, I would have enjoyed this interaction, but the rat race inside my tummy almost made me suffocate to their questions. And I whispered to myself “Really… Bongs are everywhere!” I quickly gulped my dinner from a restaurant that served Bengali cuisine and rushed back to the hotel room to face another bigger challenge! Shooting a documentary!

Soon I realised videography was altogether a different ball game and once again inspiration played its part to get me into this. I was inspired by the tales of Gaurav Jani (award-winning filmmaker and traveller) and this was going to be my unsung tribute to him. I tried to shoot an introductory clip in my hotel room and I looked like a fool in front of the rolling camera. I had to re-take almost 10 times to shoot a clip of 3 minutes and I could very well guess what was lying ahead!

Tale of Seven Sisters - On the road- Off the road- Mawsynrum- Cherrapunji - Sohra- Sela
On the road- Off the road- Mawsynrum- Cherrapunji – Sohra- Sela

It was practically my first day on road. So I started quite early, as early as 4.30 in the morning! Just as I packed my saddle, I felt like somebody was calling me out. “Dada”…?? I didn’t pay much heed the first time, quite obviously you don’t expect to be someone’s elder brother during the wee hours of morning. I heard the sound once again, this time nearer and shriller! It was Bhola, the hotel room caretaker I had befriended few hours back during check-in. With a torch and umbrella in his hand, he came up to me and very sweetly asked, “Cha khabe?” (Wanna have some tea?). Albeit not a big fan of this exotic Chinese leaf, I didn’t quite mind a cup of hot tea especially with such wind chill and drizzles around. More than anything else, I was touched by Bhola’s gesture! My instant response to him was “Etto shokale? Kothay pabe?” (Where will you get tea so early in the morning?).

Tale of Seven Sisters StatesHis response was a smile full of warmth. “Two minutes”, he said. Pleasantly surprised, I concentrated on packing once again. After couple of minutes, I could hear quick steps running down the stairs. And there he was with a flask full of tea and two cups. As I took sips off my cup and warmed up, I thought to myself. Truly, there are no strangers here; only friends you haven’t yet met. I was convinced that this ride couldn’t go wrong, no matter what happened!

“Empty your mind!” “Empty your mind!!” I kept whispering to myself. As, by the time I kickstarted the journey, my mind had got filled up like one busy junction of the Times Square. A sky-full of thoughts, apprehensions and anxiety clogged my inner self. What if I don’t come back safe? What if I lost my way? What if… Mom always said whenever you are perplexed, remember God, he takes care! Well, being an atheist, I don’t have much of a relationship with this man-made element. Despite that, I did say my prayers, to my creators: My parents. I left Shillong still in deep slumber and took along with me a very shy sun and a thumping Thunderbird!

Factfile –

http://tinyurl.com/nupme42
http://en.wikipedia.org
http://www.indiamike.com
http://xkmph.com/

Venture out on Vegan Meals!

3

I am well aware of organic food due to my association with various voluntary organisations working in the field of environment and sustainable agriculture. Today, conscious efforts are being made in choosing the right kind of food products that are not harmful for the environment. Eating organic food has become a well established trend among urbanites, who realise that every tiny bit we do adds up to make our lifestyle lot more wholesome and the environment a lot more better.

Veganism is becoming a much talked about food concept that is rising in trend, which was first adopted by environmentalists and animal rights activists. But when I first came across this concept I wondered while avoiding meat to an extent was surely possible, how can anyone avoid all kinds of animal-based products. Since I am a passionate cook, a dear one gifted me a voucher for a green cooking session on my birthday, which falls on the World Vegetarian Day.

Vegan Meals - Nina Osswald demonstrates vegan food
Nina Osswald demonstrates vegan food

But I was still curious about knowing what constitutes green cooking and vegan meals, so I eagerly participated in the session organised by Goethe-Zentrum, the German cultural institute in Hyderabad that regularly organizes various socio-cultural activities. Goethe-Zentrum had invited Nina Osswald, a German researcher and a well known organic consultant to talk on issues of organic food, environment and health.

Nina Osswald introduced us to this new concept called ‘Veganism’, which can be defined as the practice of abstaining from the use of any kind of animal products in diet, as well as preventing cruelty to animals in all human activities. While a vegetarian diet excludes all kinds of meat, a vegan diet does not include a dairy product as well! It is quite an unusual concept for us Indians, who are obsessed with using milk and other dairy products in our food.

Veganism is becoming a much talked about food concept that is rising in trend, which was first adopted by environmentalists and animal rights activists. But when I first came across this concept I wondered while avoiding meat to an extent was surely possible, but how can we exclude dairy products from your daily routine cooking and still stay healthier?

Nina Osswald, who practices veganism explained to us on various ingenious ways by which we can vegan diet in Indian cuisine. Nina had been a part of global organic movement since many years and she also follows a strict vegan diet. She has been a vegan for last two years and she says it does not make much of difference to exclude dairy products from her food for she has found other alternatives to compensate them.

Vegan Meals - Vegan Nina

Nina’s session began with an awareness talk about on organic food and products. Later she shared some important vegan recipes and also prepared a wholesome good meal using them. Lot of interaction between her and the participants made the session more interesting. At the end of the session, we all shared a vegan whole meal and to my surprise it was tasty too!

Nina gave us a list of ingredients that are more suitable to vegan diet:

  • Replace polished rice with millets and whole wheat
  • Soya or Coconut milk instead of dairy milk
  • Sprouts of pulses instead of animal protein
  • Cashew paste and peanut butter instead of butter, ghee

Talking about vitamins, Nina says similar vitamins can be consumed through greens, vegetables, fruits and pulses. She enlightened us many recipes and said if you are determined, you can easily create your own recipes without using any dairy product. when inquired how does she feel being a vegan? she say she been all the more healthy and light and she feels by doing she can do her bit for the mother earth.

Veganism is a small but growing movement. In many countries the number of vegan restaurants is increasing, and some of the top athletes in certain endurance sports such as triathlon and the ultramarathon, etc. practise veganism, including raw veganism. Well-planned vegan diets have been found to offer protection against many degenerative conditions, including heart disease.

Vegan Meals - Vegan Ragi balls with sesame
Vegan Ragi balls with sesame

Vegan diets tend to be higher in dietary fibre, magnesium, folic acid, vitamin C, vitamin E, iron, and phytochemicals, and lower in calories, saturated fat, cholesterol, long-chain omega-3 fatty acids, vitamin D, calcium, zinc, and vitamin B12. Since plant foods tend not to contain significant amounts of B12, researchers agree that vegans should eat foods fortified with B12 or take a daily supplement.
Overall, it looks like a vegan diet is a feasible idea. I am trying it out at home with sprout salads and ragi rotis this World Vegetarian Day. Do let me know if you have created any good recipes out of vegan food!

Factfile –

http://www.indianvegan.com/home.php
http://www.thehindu.com
http://thealternative.in